It was in all of this tumult that I finally found the time and space, both literal and mental, to write about the Spring/Summer 2012 collections. Almost two months removed from the last of the Paris shows, I collected my bookmarks and my thoughts and tried to distill them into something coherent.
For New York, that task was simple. After only a handful of shows, the tone of the New York season was set. This would be a season of neons and sherberts. Of a sporting life. Of flowers, flowers, and more flowers. Of peplums. Of the shortest of shorts. Of the enduring power of colorblocking. As always, the creativity emerged when designers took note of those pervasive trends without being swept away by them.
I doubt that we’ll ever be done with colorblocking. The trend has been around for a fashion eternity. So long in fact that I feel uncomfortable continuing to call it a trend. It is simply a way of life.
At Jenni Kayne
At TSE
At Mandy Coon
At Ruffian
At J. Mendel
But New York’s overarching color story was an eye searing one, full of blazing pinks and shocking blues. Some played with those electric shades in unexpected ways, rendering them in fabrics that draped and flowed and dampened the hard edge that can accompany such colors. Others toned the hues down the slightest bit, stepping back from the cliff and finding a home somewhere between pastel and neon.
At Cushie et Ochs
At Vena Cava
At Costello Tagliapietra
At Kevork Kiledjian
At Doo.Ri
At Wes Gordon
At Milly
Starting with such an audacious foundation can often give designers a chance to pull back in other areas. This season that pulling back often had a hint of le sportif to it and could be found in all types of ways from clean, strong silhouettes in non-traditional fabrics to more on the nose references.
At Kevork Kiledjian
At Reed Krakoff
At Victoria Beckham
At VPL
At Alexander Wang
Florals and I have a long, torturous history that has already been documented here, so it was with some hesitancy that I approached the abundance of blooms making their way down various runways and standing nonchalantly in a multitude of presentations. But that breadth fostered a great amount of depth and flowers appeared in every form from the classic to the acid-fueled.
At Oscar de la Renta
At ADAM
At Richard Chai Love
At Altuzarra
At Tracy Reese
At Peter Som
At Julian Louie
At Cynthia Rowley
At Vera Wang
Alongside the florals lived the peplums. But unlike the flowers, the feeling of unease that welled up whenever I saw one did not subside as the week progressed. I find them to be unflattering on almost everyone. Silly and unnecessary. But even with those feelings, there were some that made me pause for a moment.
At Vera Wang
At Marchesa
At A Détacher
At Marc by Marc Jacobs
At Jason Wu
Shorts that barely warranted the name popped up in nearly every collection as well. Feminine and paired with bows and flowers. Laid back and complemented by the stripes that I love so much. They revealed that I and this New England fall have a lot in common. Here again was an item that only complemented a rarefied few, yet I could not get enough.
At A.L.C.
At Steven Alan
At United Bamboo
At Proenza Schouler
At Jason Wu
And when the shows moved on from New York, I waited for them to appear in London, Milan, and Paris.
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