Friday, November 25, 2011

The Leftovers: London Fashion Week SS12

London has a history of living a few seasons ahead of the other cities. Yet in recent years, I’ve noticed a shift. A falling in line. Or it could be a growing up. Though if one truly thinks about it, those two ideas are inextricably linked.

This season, I felt more carry over from New York than I have in past years.

The designers showing in London have always had a way with prints, so it was no surprise that the florals seen in New York continued to flourish there in a range of manifestations.

At Clements Ribeiro


At Erdem


At Caroline Charles


At Temperley London


At Matthew Williamson


At Christopher Kane


At Kinder Aggugini


And of course prints of other varieties could be found everywhere.

At Maria Grachvogel


At Paul Smith


At David Koma


At Jonathan Saunders


At Basso & Brooke


At Michael van der Ham


At Mary Katrantzou


Outside of the floral prints, there were small glimpses of the other trends that dominated the New York season.

The colorblocking

At Jasper Conran


At Jean-Pierre Braganza


At J.W. Anderson


At Jaeger London


At Margaret Howell


The peplums

At Paul Costelloe


At Peter Jensen


At Osman


At Corrie Nielsen


The shorts

At Daks


At Erdem


But those pieces comprised only a small fraction of the whole story. And the story in London was one of neons. But there were no stepping back from the edge here as there had been in New York. No toning down of the brilliance. Maybe it was in that way that London retained some of the feel of those seasons past. At times, the colors felt too strong, yet you couldn't help but stare in amazement.

At Maria Grachvogel


At Nicole Farhi


At Ann-Sofie Back Atelje


At Matthew Williamson


At Jaeger London


At J.W. Anderson


At Paul Smith


Especially at the brilliant blues.

At Pringle of Scotland


At Burberry Prorsum


At David Koma


At Emilio de la Morena


At Paul Smith


It's a color used as a backdrop so often that you can forget its power.


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