Monday, January 27, 2014

The Leftovers: Paris Fashion Week SS14

In Paris this season the story boiled down to the two colors that have taken over the fashion community’s imagination for spring and summer.


At Christian Dior

At Stella McCartney

At A.W.A.K.E by Natalia Alaverdian

At Giambattista Valli

At Alexandre Vauthier

At Saint Laurent

At Neil Barrett

At Gareth Pugh


At Christophe Lemaire

At Vika Gazinskaya

At Valentin Yudashkin

At Véronique Leroy

At Rick Owens

At Issey Miyake

At Maison Rabih Kayrouz

At Chalayan

And myriad combinations of the two.

At Piece d’Anarchive

At Martin Grant

At Moncler Gamme Rouge

At Guy Laroche

At Talbot Runhof

At Bouchra Jarrar

At Vika Gazinskaya

At Pedro Lourenço

At Cédric Charlier

If one had to choose which of the season’s trends Paris would come to make its own, these of course make the most sense. They are, more than the other colors on the wheel, blank slates that lend themselves to maximum creativity. Most of that cool, 90s minimalism that took such a hold in New York faded away and left behind were clothes that covered a range of volumes. They were quiet and loud and everything in between.

And spring and summer once again stuck their heads out, reminding us of what awaits us when the snow and the chill melt away.

At Hèrmes

At A.P.C.

At Vika Gazinskaya

At Chanel

At Miu Miu

At Manish Arora

At Julien David

At Balenciaga

At Carven

One can only live in the fantasy of a world without seasons for so long.

Photos via

Monday, January 20, 2014

The Leftovers: Milan Fashion Week SS14

In Milan, the trends often follow the lines that start in New York. Although there is a certain Italian flare that can be seen here or there, often nothing new is added to the conversation of the season. One could say that for Spring/Summer 2014 this held true. But there was something else mixed in, a vitality that was missing from New York and, to some extent, London. The dominant trends were still the dominant trends, but there was a joy that ran through it all.

The minimal mood continued unabated.

At Max Mara

At Gianfranco Ferré

At Prada

At Iceberg

At Tod's

At Costume National

As did the blacks.

At Bottega Veneta

At Gabriele Colangelo

At Sportmax

At Francesco Scognamiglio

At Dsquared²

At Dolce & Gabbana

The whites.

At Trussardi

At Iceberg

At Ports 1961

At Gabriele Colangelo

At Dsquared²

At Blumarine

And the two seen together.

At Jil Sander

At Costume National

At No. 21

At Sportmax

At Antonio Marras

At Jil Sander

At Fausto Puglisi

The crop tops that took a hiatus during the London collections reappeared in Milan.

At Jil Sander

At Alberta Ferretti

At Mother of Pearl

At Aquilano.Rimondi

But there were also shots of vibrant color that touched almost every collection.

At Trussardi

At Fendi

At Alberta Ferretti

At Dolce & Gabbana

At Marni

At Gianfranco Ferré

At Emilio Pucci

And maybe that was the source of the joy.

Photos via