Monday, June 24, 2013

The Leftovers: Paris Fashion Week FW13

Time passes and all of a sudden it’s almost July and you’ve yet to write about Paris. The resort shows have all but wrapped up. The pre-fall collections will be in stores sooner than you’d like them to be. And yet no Paris.

It wasn’t for any lack of love for the collections. It was simply that life got, sometimes disastrously and sometimes marvelously, in the way. This season was one of those in which all of the cities were pretty closely aligned when it came to trends. It’s still something of a surprise to me when everyone gets the exact same memo concerning colors and shapes and patterns. I prefer seasons with through lines that allow each city to maintain some of its individual character. Fall/Winter 2011, with its huge focus on the 1970s, is one of the better examples of that phenomenon.

Paris does a better job of asserting itself than most and some of the trends that overwhelmed the collections in the previous cities were scaled back into something more manageable. The fur was still there trimming lapels and covering entire dresses, but its dominance was less pronounced. In Paris, there were no fur-covered boxing gloves.

At Guy Laroche

At Akris

At Tsumori Chisato

At Rochas

At Rue du Mail

At Moncler Gamme Rouge

The houndstooth, herringbone, and windowpane also faded from view somewhat.

At Sacai

At Issey Miyake

At Rue du Mail

At Lanvin

At Christian Dior

Other trends, like the mixed media seen in New York and London, made a reappearance after disappearing altogether in Milan.

At Damir Doma

At Guy Laroche

At Pedro Lourenço

The tendency for boxy shapes, whether subtle or exaggerated, was still there.

At Felipe Oliveira Baptista

At Barbara Bui

At Céline

At Carven

At Kenzo

At Roland Mouret

And the menswear trend continued to be played out in all variety of suiting.

At Dries Van Noten

At Cacharel

At Dion Lee

At Viktor + Rolf

At Neil Barrett

But the main story, as it had been all season, was about one dichotomy.


At Nina Ricci

At Willow

At Valentin Yudashkin

At Christian Wijnants

At Céline

At Gareth Pugh

And black.

At Nicolas Andreas Taralis

At A.F. Vandevorst

At Haider Ackermann

At Willow

At Yohji Yamamoto

At Mugler

At Christian Dior

At Lanvin

At Dion Lee

Although in Paris black seemed to be winning the battle.

Photos via

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