Monday, June 24, 2013

The Leftovers: Paris Fashion Week FW13

Time passes and all of a sudden it’s almost July and you’ve yet to write about Paris. The resort shows have all but wrapped up. The pre-fall collections will be in stores sooner than you’d like them to be. And yet no Paris.

It wasn’t for any lack of love for the collections. It was simply that life got, sometimes disastrously and sometimes marvelously, in the way. This season was one of those in which all of the cities were pretty closely aligned when it came to trends. It’s still something of a surprise to me when everyone gets the exact same memo concerning colors and shapes and patterns. I prefer seasons with through lines that allow each city to maintain some of its individual character. Fall/Winter 2011, with its huge focus on the 1970s, is one of the better examples of that phenomenon.

Paris does a better job of asserting itself than most and some of the trends that overwhelmed the collections in the previous cities were scaled back into something more manageable. The fur was still there trimming lapels and covering entire dresses, but its dominance was less pronounced. In Paris, there were no fur-covered boxing gloves.

At Guy Laroche


At Akris


At Tsumori Chisato


At Rochas


At Rue du Mail


At Moncler Gamme Rouge


The houndstooth, herringbone, and windowpane also faded from view somewhat.

At Sacai


At Issey Miyake


At Rue du Mail


At Lanvin


At Christian Dior


Other trends, like the mixed media seen in New York and London, made a reappearance after disappearing altogether in Milan.

At Damir Doma


At Guy Laroche


At Pedro Lourenço



The tendency for boxy shapes, whether subtle or exaggerated, was still there.

At Felipe Oliveira Baptista


At Barbara Bui


At Céline


At Carven


At Kenzo


At Roland Mouret


And the menswear trend continued to be played out in all variety of suiting.

At Dries Van Noten


At Cacharel


At Dion Lee


At Viktor + Rolf


At Neil Barrett


But the main story, as it had been all season, was about one dichotomy.

White.

At Nina Ricci


At Willow


At Valentin Yudashkin


At Christian Wijnants


At Céline


At Gareth Pugh


And black.

At Nicolas Andreas Taralis


At A.F. Vandevorst


At Haider Ackermann


At Willow


At Yohji Yamamoto


At Mugler


At Christian Dior


At Lanvin


At Dion Lee


Although in Paris black seemed to be winning the battle.


Photos via

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