It wasn’t for any lack of love for the collections. It was simply that life got, sometimes disastrously and sometimes marvelously, in the way. This season was one of those in which all of the cities were pretty closely aligned when it came to trends. It’s still something of a surprise to me when everyone gets the exact same memo concerning colors and shapes and patterns. I prefer seasons with through lines that allow each city to maintain some of its individual character. Fall/Winter 2011, with its huge focus on the 1970s, is one of the better examples of that phenomenon.
Paris does a better job of asserting itself than most and some of the trends that overwhelmed the collections in the previous cities were scaled back into something more manageable. The fur was still there trimming lapels and covering entire dresses, but its dominance was less pronounced. In Paris, there were no fur-covered boxing gloves.
At Guy Laroche
At Akris
At Tsumori Chisato
At Rochas
At Rue du Mail
At Moncler Gamme Rouge
The houndstooth, herringbone, and windowpane also faded from view somewhat.
At Sacai
At Issey Miyake
At Rue du Mail
At Lanvin
At Christian Dior
Other trends, like the mixed media seen in New York and London, made a reappearance after disappearing altogether in Milan.
At Damir Doma
At Guy Laroche
At Pedro Lourenço
The tendency for boxy shapes, whether subtle or exaggerated, was still there.
At Felipe Oliveira Baptista
At Barbara Bui
At Céline
At Carven
At Kenzo
At Roland Mouret
And the menswear trend continued to be played out in all variety of suiting.
At Dries Van Noten
At Cacharel
At Dion Lee
At Viktor + Rolf
At Neil Barrett
But the main story, as it had been all season, was about one dichotomy.
White.
At Nina Ricci
At Willow
At Valentin Yudashkin
At Christian Wijnants
At Céline
At Gareth Pugh
And black.
At Nicolas Andreas Taralis
At A.F. Vandevorst
At Haider Ackermann
At Willow
At Yohji Yamamoto
At Mugler
At Christian Dior
At Lanvin
At Dion Lee
Although in Paris black seemed to be winning the battle.
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