Monday, January 30, 2012

Sticking Around

For the past few weeks in the northeast, it’s been easy at times to forget what month it is and how much of winter still lay ahead of us. We’ve had almost absurdly warm days. Snow that has fallen only to quickly melt away. I’ve stopped carrying my gloves along with me during my nighttime wanderings and considered, briefly, wearing my skirts without tights. It’s been in all of this seasonal dysmorphia that I’ve made my way through the pre-Fall 2012 collections.

More than in past minor seasons, my bookmark folder overflowed as my want, my need really, for those traditional markers of fall and winter overtook my senses. Heavier trenches and long leather gloves and wool blazers.

At A.L.C.

At Thakoon

At Balmain

At Nina Ricci

At Erdem

At Christian Dior

But there were still reminders of the warm weather that will be at its apex when these clothes arrive in store.

At Zero Maria Cornejo

At Jenni Kayne

At Rag & Bone

At Derek Lam

The pre-Fall narrative was filled with the story of Spring/Summer 2012 and the way in which the trends of that season lingered. There are always a few holdovers, but this year the major trends cast a much longer shadow. The peplum, the trend of Spring/Summer 2012, showed no signs of leaving us behind. In fact, its dominance only seemed to grow.

At 3.1 Phillip Lim

At. A.L.C.

At Nanette Lepore


At Thakoon

At Antonio Berardi

At Givenchy

At Gucci

At Rebecca Minkoff

At Calvin Klein

At Stella McCartney

At Alexander McQueen

The florals, from the feminine to the psychadelic, also held over from the previous season. Though now they often came in the traditionally deeper and more muted colors of fall.

At Erdem


At Oscar de la Renta

At Burberry Prorsum

At No. 21

At Doo.Ri

At Tracy Reese

Many of the neons faded from view but one, the blazing, electric blue, was still to be found in garments of all sorts.

At Dsquared²

At Jenni Kayne

At Preen

At Issey Miyake

At Erin Featherston

At Roksanda Ilincic

At Rachel Roy

At Jonathan Saunders

But even with so much continuity, there was still a sense of things to come. Ladylike sheaths, demure and sophisticated, were seen in a range of collections. They brought a seriousness to the season that I think we'll continue to see for fall as the bright and sometimes dizzying effects of spring fade away.

At Jason Wu

At Gucci

At Yves Saint Laurent

At Louis Vuitton

At Givenchy

At Thakoon

At Celine

Soon enough the Fall/Winter 2012 season will begin. And with it, I hope, the cold will finally settle in.

Photos via

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