Wrestling with the need to retain some of that history and the urge to continue challenging it is an issue that designers, especially at the older and bigger houses, face year after year.
At Chanel this season, Karl Lagerfeld took the image of the Chanel woman and roughed her up a bit. With her boots and jeans and slouchy tweed jackets, there was a griminess to her that isn't usually seen.
She was without a doubt of the brand. But she was also something else.
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