Favorite of the Day: Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras has been doing the best print work in Milan for years now.

Pre-Fall 2012

Pre-Fall 2013

Fall/Winter 2013

Resort 2014

Fall/Winter 2014

Resort 2015

So it was no surprise to see him continue that streak in his most recent collection.

Always a little off and a little odd in the styling. But in the end, pretty above all else.


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Favorite of the Day: Tomas Maier

New York Fashion Week started fully yesterday and as editors and buyers and bloggers wandered the city covered in the latest trends, I observed all of the goings on from afar. When it comes to my personal style, I've settled into a life that has become less and less concerned with those ups and downs.

Marveling at things I only see working on others is second nature at this point, but I still love a collection that I can imagine living my life in. And on day two, Tomas Maier presented exactly that.

It was a perfect slice of Samantha through and through.

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Favorite of the Day: Ports 1961

After London's general discarding of the trend of New York, some of the themes seen in that first city began to make their return as the focus moved on to Milan.

At Ports 1961, the color palette was dominated by black and white, but this was about minimalism and modernity.

It was about something lighter, prettier, and very Italian.


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Favorite of the Day: Osman

Osman has always been about clean lines. Clean and sharp but without any harshness. That trend continued in the collection shown on September 16th.

But other ideas crept in. Prints both soft and loud, subtle and bold. Hemlines that played with the idea of asymmetry. 

It was the same game but with a new set of rules.

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Favorite of the Day: Preen

On September 15th, the shows in London continued to deal only lightly in the trends that informed so much of what was seen on the runways of New York. It's a shift that happens nearly every season, but the near 180 degree turn still comes as a bit of a shock to me.

At Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, floral prints and blocks of color were woven into geometric patchworks against backdrops that ranged from the starkest of whites to the murkiest of grays.

The trends of New York could be seen here and there, but this was the real story.


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Favorite of the Day: Tanya Taylor

I first learned about Tanya Taylor a year ago when her collection was shown during a small presentation. 12 months later on September 5th her clothes had moved from the static to the fluid as her most recent collection made its way down one of New York fashion week's many runways.

A year later some of the clothes, especially those of the lace or floral variety, still have that antique edge to them. But the Tanya Taylor girl has also started to come into her own. The dusty quality of that previous season's colors has been replaced with a youthful vibrancy.

And some of these clothes would never be found in her great aunt's closet.


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Favorite of the Day: Kenzo

One expects the clothes for cooler climes to be more serious, more about function and warmth and utility. As I've said before, I like things to be in their place and of their time, but I was delighted by the prints play that occurred at the Kenzo.

It was cheeky and fun and youthful. 

But with its heavier fabrics and deeper shades, it didn't seem out of place in the narrative of the season.

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Favorite of the Day: Anthony Vaccarello

It was a small crop of shows that opened fashion week in Paris, and I was surprised to find a favorite among so few options.

The Anthony Vaccarello brand is about sex. Sleek, edgy sex. I can often appreciate the clothes though I'm not always blown away by them. But this season, there was a softening. Airy tops and chunky sweaters were paired with the smallest of leather miniskirts. And I'm always a fan of dichotomies.

There were still legs galore. But then, I've never really had a problem with legs.


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Favorite of the Day: MaxMara

I've never been one to scoff at so-called neutrals. For some they are boring. They lack imagination. They are a crutch for those unwilling to take a fashion risk. For me they are rarely any of those things.

At the MaxMara show, all of those background colors came out to play. The camels. The browns. The winter whites. When that happens, you can focus on the shading, the play on menswear, and the variety of textures.

Sometimes the color and the pattern are used to distract you from lackluster clothes. In these tones, it's harder to hide.


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Favorite of the Day: Derek Lam

It was a bright and tumultuous Spring/Summer season for many collections, so it's no surprise that now, in the midst of the Fall/Winter collections in New York, there has been a swing back.

At Derek Lam, the results of that turnaround were among the best. The palette was muted but not boring. The prints and patterns were subtle as opposed to dizzying.

The silhouettes had just a hint of a breeze to them.

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Favorite of the Day: Rachel Comey

It's finally, thankfully, cold outside. Not early February cold, but cold enough for gloves and thick tights. Usually when fashion week rolls around, I am tired of the cold. Looking for anything but the layers and tweeds and soft wools that are often on display for the coming Fall/Winter season. But this year, I am exhilarated by all of those things.

At Rachel Comey, those markers of cold weather were on full display, but they were offered with a twist.

Nubby knits offset by items in sleek silver. Oversized coats in punchy colors. Cold weather dressing that could never be boring.

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