Monday, January 27, 2014

The Leftovers: Paris Fashion Week SS14

In Paris this season the story boiled down to the two colors that have taken over the fashion community’s imagination for spring and summer.

Black.

At Christian Dior


At Stella McCartney


At A.W.A.K.E by Natalia Alaverdian


At Giambattista Valli


At Alexandre Vauthier


At Saint Laurent


At Neil Barrett


At Gareth Pugh


White.

At Christophe Lemaire


At Vika Gazinskaya


At Valentin Yudashkin


At Véronique Leroy


At Rick Owens


At Issey Miyake


At Maison Rabih Kayrouz


At Chalayan


And myriad combinations of the two.

At Piece d’Anarchive


At Martin Grant


At Moncler Gamme Rouge


At Guy Laroche


At Talbot Runhof


At Bouchra Jarrar


At Vika Gazinskaya


At Pedro Lourenço


At Cédric Charlier


If one had to choose which of the season’s trends Paris would come to make its own, these of course make the most sense. They are, more than the other colors on the wheel, blank slates that lend themselves to maximum creativity. Most of that cool, 90s minimalism that took such a hold in New York faded away and left behind were clothes that covered a range of volumes. They were quiet and loud and everything in between.

And spring and summer once again stuck their heads out, reminding us of what awaits us when the snow and the chill melt away.

At Hèrmes


At A.P.C.


At Vika Gazinskaya


At Chanel


At Miu Miu


At Manish Arora


At Julien David


At Balenciaga


At Carven


One can only live in the fantasy of a world without seasons for so long.


Photos via

Monday, January 20, 2014

The Leftovers: Milan Fashion Week SS14

In Milan, the trends often follow the lines that start in New York. Although there is a certain Italian flare that can be seen here or there, often nothing new is added to the conversation of the season. One could say that for Spring/Summer 2014 this held true. But there was something else mixed in, a vitality that was missing from New York and, to some extent, London. The dominant trends were still the dominant trends, but there was a joy that ran through it all.

The minimal mood continued unabated.

At Max Mara


At Gianfranco Ferré


At Prada


At Iceberg


At Tod's


At Costume National


As did the blacks.

At Bottega Veneta


At Gabriele Colangelo


At Sportmax


At Francesco Scognamiglio


At Dsquared²


At Dolce & Gabbana


The whites.

At Trussardi


At Iceberg


At Ports 1961


At Gabriele Colangelo


At Dsquared²


At Blumarine


And the two seen together.

At Jil Sander


At Costume National


At No. 21


At Sportmax


At Antonio Marras


At Jil Sander


At Fausto Puglisi


The crop tops that took a hiatus during the London collections reappeared in Milan.

At Jil Sander



At Alberta Ferretti


At Mother of Pearl


At Aquilano.Rimondi


But there were also shots of vibrant color that touched almost every collection.

At Trussardi


At Fendi


At Alberta Ferretti


At Dolce & Gabbana


At Marni


At Gianfranco Ferré


At Emilio Pucci


And maybe that was the source of the joy.


Photos via