Thursday, April 7, 2011

The Leftovers: Milan Fashion Week FW11

As the shows, editors, buyers, bloggers and models moved from London to Milan, the 1970s followed them. But once again, the particular vision of the era shifted. Instead of the downtown, struggling artist, here was the glamour of disco. Crushed velvet in wine colors adorned jackets. Women slinked down the runway in furs. Sex emanated from all corners.

At Gucci


At Fendi


At Etro


At Moschino


At Versace


At Emilio Pucci


At Roberto Cavalli


At Iceberg



At Dsquared²


And even within the realm of the city's continued fascination with the rainbow of colors that enchanted so many during last season’s shows, the power of the period could still be felt.

At Marni


At Blumarine


At Jil Sander


At Dolce & Gabbana


At Gucci


At Blumarine


Yet much as it had in New York and London, one color rose above all of the rest.

At Alberta Ferretti


At Gucci



At Gabriele Colangelo


At Emilio Pucci


At Moschino Cheap And Chic


At Piazza Sempione



Photos via

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

The Belt

Belts were not a part of my wardrobe during my early and mid teens. After the weight gain of puberty and early adolescence, I loathed the idea of an accessory that consistently let me in on how large my stomach was at any given moment. And as I spent most of high school being a masochist and buying clothes that were a smidge too small in hopes that the discomfort would push me into weight loss, my middle section did a pretty admirable job of holding my pants in place.

But during my first year of college, due to stress, unhappiness and an unwavering allegiance to the gym, I lost weight. A belt became a necessary stopgap measure between the old pants that were sliding past my hips with ease and the new ones that I would have to break down and buy eventually. (By that point I lived in pretty constant fear of suddenly waking up 15 pounds heavier and having nothing to wear because I had gotten rid of all of my old clothes. My rather rational mind can sometimes be overrun by ridiculous thoughts.) As was often the case in those days, I ran across to the local Gap to try and solve my problem.

For nearly a decade since, I’ve placed the same belt through the loops of various pairs of pants. I never knew that I was capable of such allegiance. The Belt is rather utilitarian. Dark brown leather. Over an inch in width. Five notches. At notch three there is considerable wear, though two and four have had their day. It is marked by signs of overuse. The buckle has begun to tarnish. There are loose threads along the stitching. At a stretch along the middle, it curls outward.


Since The Belt entered my wardrobe, I’ve bought many others. Wide, waist cinchers. Thin, woven ornaments. On a coat stand that is no longer a coat stand, all of the belts hang alongside various purses past their prime.

Yet when I get dressed in the morning, I always reach for the same one. I’ve tried many times to replace it. To find a belt that is simple and useful and reasonably priced. But I keep running into little wisps of leather that could barely be called belts or those littered with studs and dyed bright, candy colors. Some of those outliers have found their way home with me, but what I need to replace The Belt is simplicity and utility.

I have yet to find it.

Monday, April 4, 2011

The Leftovers: London Fashion Week FW11

A couple of weeks ago, even though I was deep in the throes of another book, I bought a copy of Just Kids. Number 98 (or maybe 97 or 96 by that time) on the list of people in the Boston Public Library network waiting for their turn to borrow it, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase my own copy. I first felt the need to read the book upon its publication, but as I'd taken to assigning myself a reading list as if I were in a college seminar, there were a line of books ahead of it at the time.

The murmurs out of London were dominated by the book and its influence on a myriad of designers. And as the models walked the runways, it became evident that the city's focus on the "decade of the moment" was less sweeping and more focused on the particular place and time in which the book is set.


At Jaeger London



At House of Holland


At Jonathan Saunders


At Mulberry


At Margaret Howell


Much as he did with rockabilly style a season before, Paul Smith took this trend in hand and ran with it.





Yet there was also a taste of some of the other trends seen on the New York runways.

The longer skirts that hit anywhere the knee to the floor.

At Maria Grachvogel


At Nicole Farhi


At Roksanda Ilincic


The reds that recall the variety of shades cherry popsicles can stain your lips.

At Betty Jackson


At Kinder Aggugini


At Issa


At Jonathan Saunders


At Burberry


The color blocking that has been gaining a foothold since Pre-Fall.

At Kinder Aggugini


At Jonathan Saunders



At Osman



As well as a reminder of what London often does best.

At Maria Grachvogel


At Clements Ribeiro


At Matthew Williamson


At Basso & Brooke


At Holly Fulton



At Mary Katrantzou



Photos via, via