Monday, January 20, 2014

The Leftovers: Milan Fashion Week SS14

In Milan, the trends often follow the lines that start in New York. Although there is a certain Italian flare that can be seen here or there, often nothing new is added to the conversation of the season. One could say that for Spring/Summer 2014 this held true. But there was something else mixed in, a vitality that was missing from New York and, to some extent, London. The dominant trends were still the dominant trends, but there was a joy that ran through it all.

The minimal mood continued unabated.

At Max Mara


At Gianfranco Ferré


At Prada


At Iceberg


At Tod's


At Costume National


As did the blacks.

At Bottega Veneta


At Gabriele Colangelo


At Sportmax


At Francesco Scognamiglio


At Dsquared²


At Dolce & Gabbana


The whites.

At Trussardi


At Iceberg


At Ports 1961


At Gabriele Colangelo


At Dsquared²


At Blumarine


And the two seen together.

At Jil Sander


At Costume National


At No. 21


At Sportmax


At Antonio Marras


At Jil Sander


At Fausto Puglisi


The crop tops that took a hiatus during the London collections reappeared in Milan.

At Jil Sander



At Alberta Ferretti


At Mother of Pearl


At Aquilano.Rimondi


But there were also shots of vibrant color that touched almost every collection.

At Trussardi


At Fendi


At Alberta Ferretti


At Dolce & Gabbana


At Marni


At Gianfranco Ferré


At Emilio Pucci


And maybe that was the source of the joy.


Photos via

Friday, January 17, 2014

The Leftovers: London Fashion Week SS14

This was another season in which London hewed closely to New York. It's always a bit of a surprise to see the major trends of the season feature so heavily in these collections instead of skipping lightly over the city and landing in Milan. But maybe the world is shrinking in new ways.

The London collections are rarely, if ever, what one would call minimal. And yet that very New York feeling made its way into many of the clothes that were presented across the pond.

At Osman


At Thomas Tait


At Joseph


At Richard Nicoll


At J JS Lee


At Lucas Nascimento


Most of the minimal looks continued to be found in the colors set to dominate next spring and summer.

The classic blacks.

At Lucas Nascimento


At Preen


At Vivienne Westwood Red Label


At Roksanda Ilincic


At Christopher Kane


At David Koma


At Antonio Berardi


And the clean whites.

At JW Anderson


At John Rocha


At L’Wren Scott


At Thomas Tait


At Christopher Kane


At Preen


At Peter Jensen


At Isa Arfen


And as before, the two were also mixed.

At Todd Lynn


At Paul Smith


At Antonio Berardi


At Zoe Jordan


At David Koma


At Joseph


But there are traits inherent in all of us that can't be hidden away. Although that seasonless, minimal mood thoroughly infiltrated the London collections, the prints and patterns couldn't be silenced. Most of these pieces reminded one that it is in fact spring that approaches. Florals were everywhere. And yes, the "florals for spring" idea is often overdone and stale.

At Markus Lupfer


At Mulberry


At Michael van der Ham


At Christopher Kane


At Preen


At Matthew Williamson


At Mary Katrantzou


At Tata Naka


But as is often case in London, there was only freshness.


Photos via, via